Not known for my fashion evaluations, I was nevertheless impressed with the collection of Georgian designer, Tiko Paksashvili.
She
won three prizes at the June 2013 BE NEXT Fashion Design Contest for her ‘structured
cuts, innovative use of fabrics and feminine style’ (reported the online
fashion magazine by MUUSE). The contest aimed to showcase 25 new design talents
from Georgia and the region. Paksashvili was the outright winner of the
contest, winning a scholarship in Milan at the Domus Academy and a MUUSE contract
for her graduate collection. The international judges were fascinated with her ‘distinct
signature details, her knowledge on how to treat fabrics, and the way she
skilfully combined contrasting structured cuts with feminine waves of cotton.’ Titled
‘Unknown’ the collection was hand-made textiles of cotton and silk in white.
In
a MUUSE interview with Paksashvili (October 30, 2013), Tiko said she liked to
create illusions, using soft and strong fabrics together, and that people should
feel comfortable in her clothes, as well as special.
With
the dress I bought (photographed) from the Materiel Fashion House, Paksashvili took the white cotton and silk
theme into navy blue with grey-white silk capped sleeves. Showing the same
attention to detail as her winning collection, the dress had silk lined pockets
and was semi-lined in grey silk. Cut on the bias, the dress flows effortlessly
while retaining its structured shape.
Garments
cut on the bias (i.e. against the natural grain of the fabric) are difficult to
work with when designing and sewing (as I know from my private sewing lessons).
Instead of straight up and down, the fabric is rotated at 45 degrees to the
warp and weft of the weaving (my geometry training in university mathematics
makes me appreciate this angle). Cutting fabric on this angle requires precision
because it could easily be mis-cut, depending on the thickness of the fabric.
Not all fabrics are amenable to this type of cutting. However, the bais cut has
a distinctive look and feel, and tends to flow more easily – keeping it strong,
but feminine and ‘floaty’.
Paksashvili’s
desired effects of strong and soft, light and structured, comfortable and
special, were well-achieved – and yet without being ostentatious or too
dramatic. It does indeed show intelligence in her design knowledge, with a simple
understated style and elegance.
http://muusings.muuse.com/designer-feature-tiko-paksashvili
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