Gergeti Trinity Church in Georgia

Near the village of Gergeti outside the town of Stepantsminda is the isolated Gergeti Trinity Church. It sits on top of a mountain at an elevation of 2,170 meters (7,119 feet), near Mt Kazbek. The 14th century Georgian orthodox and apostolic church is a popular tourist destination in fine weather. In winter, snow cuts off the region.

Tourists can climb the steep mountainside for 3 hours to reach the church, or they can take a half-hour drive in a local taxi because the taxi drivers know the terrain well. In fact, the taxi drivers actively tout for business at the base of the mountain. The day I visited Stepantsminda it was raining so I took a taxi to the mount.

I commenced the trip to Gergeti with coffee at my taxi driver, Wasily’s home. We had coffee, biscuits and prunes while he told me about the tourists that come to the region. Most are Israelis, followed by Germans, Finns, Norwegians, Americans and the French. Most are trekkers and backpackers who trek the parks and reserves nearby. Busloads of tourists come too, but just for the day.

Wasily’s car is ancient, and the steep track to the church was muddy and slippery. Many times we slid down the mount at 90 degrees. Close to the top we were stuck in a rut, but only for a few minutes as the old Georgian skillfully maneuvered his way up the last 50 metres.

The cold, strong wind was a bit of a shock for the short walk to the church. The church is still active and a priest lives in isolation and peace in accommodation next to the church below the bell tower. The views were spectacular and Mt Kazbek was clearly visible.

MARTINA NICOLLS is an international aid and development consultant, and the author of:- The Shortness of Life: A Mongolian Lament (2015), Liberia’s Deadest Ends (2012), Bardot’s Comet (2011), Kashmir on a Knife-Edge (2010) and The Sudan Curse (2009).

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