Nepal’s Pokhara: caves and waterfalls

In the city of Pokhara in Kaski District, a central district of Nepal, a river runs under it. The Seti Gandaki, or White River, flows underneath the city and throughout the adjacent area, creating gorges, canyons, caves, and waterfalls.

A cave and a waterfall are right in the city and easily accessible for locals and visitors. From the Phewa Lake, a Seti Gandaki’s tributary forms the Devi’s Falls (or Davis Falls) that travels underground and re-appears 500 metres further south as the Mahendra Gufa Cave. Visitors pay twice: once to enter the Devi’s Falls attraction to view the waterfall and crevaces, and the second time across the main road to enter the Mahendra Gufa Cave.

Both are worth it, especially when the falls are at their height (not in February as I noticed) and when the cave renovations are completed (not yet). The famous bat cave is open only during the day, and therefore the bats are not in view. Nevertheless, both the falls and the cave are remarkable features within a short distance of each other in the city centre.

The Devi's Falls complex has several points to view the waterfall, at different levels, all with a sturdy boundary rail. When the river is not full, the hill side reveals lush plants on sides that descend into eternity. The bottom is not visible. Within the complex is a wishing well. If a coin lands on the pedestal below the surface, your wish will be granted. One of my coins did so.

The fall is usually observed first. Then take the short walk to the cave. Renovations are under construction to fit an elaborate spiral ballustrade to the entrance. The smell of bat urine fills the cave, but is soon forgotten as the crystalline walls shimmer. Descending deep into the cave is worth the spectacular sight as the Devi's falls hit the ground.

At night time, the main attraction is Lakeside (Baidam), the long street adjacent to Phewa Lake, with cafes, restaurants, hotels, and shops. Pokhara city is 12 kilometres long from north to south, and 6 kilometres wide, and compact, making walking around the city and lake a pleasure.

MARTINA NICOLLSis an international aid and development consultant, and the authorof:- Similar But Different in the Animal Kingdom(2017), The Shortness of Life: A Mongolian Lament (2015), Liberia’s Deadest Ends (2012), Bardot’s Comet (2011), Kashmir on a Knife-Edge (2010) and The Sudan Curse (2009).

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