The Ghosts of Happy Valley: Searching for the lost world of Africa’s infamous aristocrats (2013) has a title that is both true and misleading. The novel is
about Happy Valley – the Wanjohi Valley in Kenya where high-bred colonial Brits
took over the fertile plains to farm, but also to live a hedonistic life of
all-night parties, romances and affairs, debauchery, and scandalous behaviour.
But it is not about the aristocrats of Africa, for it is really only about
Kenya – and the few who lived in, or near Wanjohi Valley and Nairobi, or were
associated with those who did.
Barnes
lives in Kenya, in the Rift Valley, and from March 2000 undertook several
visits to the homes of the five-times married, out-to-shock, British socialite
and dairy cattle breeder Idina Sackville – written about as The Bolter. Her
most noted home was – after her fourth marriage – the mountain ranch called ‘Clouds’
- 8,000 feet above sea level among the Kipipiri forests. It was a grand place
in the 1930s, but now 75 years later, the courtyard is crumbling, the grass
uncut, roof tiles have fallen off, there is no running water, but plenty of cobwebs
and cracks.
Once
grand and luxurious homes, whose walls had seen the miscreant behaviour of the
rich and famous, they were now dilapidated. But their memories live on. Conversing
with the Kenyans who once worked there, and some who now live on the Clouds
estate, as well as through the accounts of Europeans who knew of Happy Valley
or were related to the original inhabitants of the colonial farms, Barnes
pieces together what life may have been like when the homes were new and opulent.
Barnes
also tries to add an account of people’s views on the 1941 mysterious murder of
Joss Hay, Idina’s third husband, but he had so many affairs and lovers that it
is impossible to say who loved him and who didn’t. Everyone she questioned
insisted that they knew who killed him, yet they had different answers. Jilted
lovers, an irrational husband, a betrayed friend, disgruntled servants, and
even the British government were all implicated in the murder of the 22nd
Earl of Erroll. “It is highly probable that with superior numbers of Italian
troops to the north of the British colony, and the British invasion of
Somaliland imminent, it would have been considered too risky to allow Erroll to
continue to be so deeply involved in colonial politics … and certain secrets he
might have known …”
She
writes, “I thought about how life in Kenya seems to involve so many tragedies …
yet many white farmers and their descendants stayed on because of that special
something about the country that is not easy to explain: a curious but powerful
mix of intangible qualities – including a wonderful climate, stunning scenery, unlimited
space and freedom, a thrilling lifestyle … and cheap labour. And thus they
built homes … in a land that wasn’t truly theirs and would one day be handed
back to the Africans, breaking many settlers’ hearts when they had to leave.”
Back in England, people were described as “dull and grey” strangers in
comparison with the lively set in safari suits and silk gowns in Kenya where
everyone knew everyone and their little secrets. Yet the secret of Joss Hay’s
murder remains just that.
Without
the intrigue and intense descriptive narratives of other books about the Happy
Valley aristocrats, Idina Sackville and her scandals, and the shooting of Joss
Hay, Barnes’ novel, The Ghosts of Happy Valley, is more whimsical and wistful,
reminiscent of bygone days – where all that is left are dreams and haunted
houses.
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