In the town of
Tsandandali in eastern Georgia is the former residence of poet Aleksandre
Chavchavadze.
Chavchavadze
(1786-1846) was a poet, writer, translator, military leader, diplomat, and
inventor. He was considered to be the founder of Georgian romantic poetry. He
was also a wine maker, which is why he established a home in Georgia’s wine
region of Kakheti.
Chavchavadze was the
godson of Catherine II of Russia and from 1813-1815, as lieutenant general in
the Russian army, he fought against Napoleon.
The Aleksandre
Chavchavadze House and Museum opened in 1947 and was renovated in 2008. The
architecture is Georgian-European with furnishings and decor from Georgia,
France, and Russia. The extremely wide verandahs, high ceilings, ornate
cornices, and French doors make it an open-spaced, light living accommodation
in grand style, yet in reality it is a two-story rectangular home. However, the
crockery and china, drapes and tapestries, from all over the world, show a
collection of interesting pieces. There are also five pianos, one of them is a
Steinway.
Within the grand
residence is a one-room art gallery, with an original Salvador Dali painting.
There is also a wine cellar with wine tasting (degustation) and sales of the
Tsinandali wines that are still produced on the estate.
The garden should not
be overlooked as it is wonderful to walk around. The grounds occupy 18 hectares
of land. Aleksandre Chavchavadze was the first landowner to design a European
landscape with grassed areas, a lily pond, natural and manicured gardens, and a
labyrinth (hedged maze). It includes European, Asian, and American exotic
plants and trees.
However, there is a
tragic side to the beauty. Chavchadze had four children; a son David and three
daughters – Nino, Catherine, and Sophia. After Aleksandre’s death, David took
over the estate. In September 1854 Imam Shamyl and his tribesmen from Dagestan
kidnapped 23 women and children from the house (including his wife and children).
David had to mortgage the house to pay the ransom. He paid 14,000 silver
rubles, less than the asking ransom, and it took nine months before he was
reunited with his family. However, he was heavily in debt to the Russian Public
Bank.
After David’s death in
February 1886 the Estate Department of the Russian Empire bought his house and
land which passed to the property of Tsar Alexander III due to the Chavchavadze
family’s failure to pay the debt on the home. In 1947 the estate was turned
into a museum.
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