Discovering France in a Rowing Boat by Charles Timoney: book review

An Englishman Abroad – Discovering France in a Rowing Boat (2013) is set along the Seine river from the source to the sea. This is the author’s third travelogue – living in France for more than 20 years. Charles took six months to build a 7-foot rowing boat from a kit, with a sudden plan to travel along the Seine in a variety of river transport, with stops and starts throughout the year, taking in the sights, museums, and the French cuisine.

The book is written in three parts, representing the three parts of the Seine: (1) source to Paris, (2) the Paris area, and (3) Paris to sea. The Seine is ‘very bendy’ and 776 kilometres (470 miles) long – twice the length of The Thames in Britain.

His French wife, Ines, accompanies him on his journey. He begins in his rowing boat from Burgundy on the plateau de Langres (the source of Le Petit Seine). His rowing boat is classified as a menues embarcations – a very small craft – which is banned on Parisian waters, so in Paris he begins with a shuttle-boat from Maisons-Alfort to Parc de Bercy, a catamaran, and a Batobus (boat-bus). He gets back into his rowing boat from Bougival ‘shaken, but not stirred’ by passing barges.

On the third leg to the sea he travels on Serge’s barge, Dimitri’s small cruiser with a ‘whopping great outboard motor on the back’, Christophe’s 1963 amphicar (that looks like a convertible with propellers), Dominique’s large cabin cruiser, Jean-Francois’ sailing boat, then a bac (river ferry). For the last part he rows to the seaside city (and UNESCO World Heritage Site) of Le Havre and Le Pont de Normandie – the 257th and final bridge over the river Seine.

I think the title is long and misleading. It is not about discovering France, but about discovering the Seine – a very small part of France. And it is not in a rowing boat, but in any seaworthy vessel he can find. Perhaps the title of the book should be Discovering the Seine by Boat.

It is not an arduous adventure – it is more like a Sunday frolic in a row boat, interspersed with standing on a boat watching the scenery. The most interesting part was Part 3, from Paris to Le Havre, even though there was minimal rowing. Most of the rowing was in Part 1, from source to almost Paris. The Paris section was disappointing for there was nothing new or interesting. Neither is it remarkable literature – it is a random set of news and views on what he sees, eats, does, and meets along the way. Like the Seine, the book can be long and rambling. But I think the river is more interesting.

Nevertheless, for Francophiles and Timoney fans, there is some worthwhile reading. Readers learn about the confluence of the Aube river and the Seine, river vocabulary, the river level, the coypu (a beaver-like creature), French cider, the Bayeux Tapestry, and ‘dragees’ (sugared almonds). Along the way readers learn about Sequana – the Roman goddess of the Seine (from the word ‘squan’ meaning serpentine) – smelly Epoisses cheese, how to choose Champagne, the difference between ‘egorger’ and ‘degorger’ and why English children only ever read books about rivers.’

MARTINA NICOLLS is the author of:- The Shortness of Life: A Mongolian Lament (2015), Liberia’s Deadest Ends (2012), Bardot’s Comet (2011), Kashmir on a Knife-Edge (2010) and The Sudan Curse (2009).

2016 update on Rike Park, Tbilisi: from construction to busy park

From a flat patch of uninteresting dirt, Rike Park in Tbilisi, Georgia, has transformed in four years (from 2014-2016) into a busy park full of trees, flower beds, sculptures, fountains, and events. Rike (Rikhe) Park is on the left bank of the Mt’k’vari River (the Kura River) near the Old City of Tbilisi. The Peace Bridge links the right bank to Rike Park. Rike Park is below the hillside Presidential Palace and, via cable car, it is the starting point for the ride to Sololaki Ridge (with the Narikala Fortress and the Mother of Georgia statue). The glass box-shaped cable car terminus was opened on 23 June 2012, and since then the park has continually developed into a ‘people’s park’ where people can walk around, eat at the nearby restaurants, sit next to the statue of American president Ronald Reagan, climb the steps to Avlabari district, and access the sights of Meidan Square, the Peace Bridge, the Metekhi Church, the Old City, the waterfall, the sulphur baths, and t...

Pir-E-Kamil - The Perfect Mentor by Umera Ahmed: book review

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Hop on hop off bus tourism comes to Tbilisi, Georgia

City Sightseeing buses have arrived in Tbilisi. The iconic red double-decker buses, a feature of many cities around the world since the company was established in Seville, Spain in 1999, is now in six continents and almost 100 cities. The company established its Tbilisi business in November 2013, with its operations commencing in February 2014. The 90-minute tour stops at 11 major locations in Tbilisi (with 2 to 5 minute waiting times at each location): the Old City (where it commences), Freedom Square, Rose Revolution Square, Marjanishvili Square, the Dry Bridge, Konka, Avlabari, Metekhi, Akhundov Museum, the Sulfur Baths, and European Square. Passengers can hop off at any stop and see the sights, hopping back onto the next bus at any time. Alternatively, passengers can remain on the bus for the whole tour and take photographs when the bus stops at each location. There are one day (24-hour) passes (for 35 lari – about $20) and 48-hour passes for 55 lari, with family d...

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